I'm cheating at tiny trucks.
I'm going to make this truck a contender. Watching n00b at the ECSC this year inspired me to try to make a truck that works good, while looking good. Instead of my usual, looks great, can't pass gate one...
I'm starting with some parts.
Since this truck will be very extreme, I'll need help from an extreme guy.
Oooh, he's scary! Ron probably has some wrestler friends.
Very extreme. LOL I think a lot of us are inspired by nOOb's performance at ECSC this year. I know I was for sure.
Meh, he's alright I guess. As far as best friends go. If you're lucky, you'll see this rig before the ECSC...
Originally Posted by DV8ion
First order of business is to assemble axles. Rear axle first. Always do it in that order.
There is so much beef in my tubes. Beef Tubes, HR lockers, HR underdrive gear set, Fast Eddy bearings, VP Stage One, everything you could ask for. Except the right length shafts... Has someone got the part number handy?
Next up, I decided to go with a cantilevered rear suspension setup. Rather than buy a kit for $45 plus shipping, I decided to make my own.
Step one, buy a 3D printer. You can get them anywhere nowadays. Drexel makes one for crying out loud. Step two, learn how to use a basic CAD program like Sketchup. Step three, print out the parts you designed to sit inside the rail and attach to frame.
Revel in your awesomeness for being able to accurately measure things when they sit in the frame rails properly. I then purchased a complete mini Revo and took off the parts I needed and threw the rest out. All you need really is the rocker arms and the tiny shocks.
That's all there is to it. Depending on how I set up the pivot arms, I can probably mount this whole assembly on the outside of the rail as well. This way is nice for keeping things clean. Fully flat floor, with all the travel, or more of a stock setup.
Looking good Matt...
I like the Cantilever set up. May need to talk with you.
Ha, any time sir! I'll give you a shout this week.
Originally Posted by Rckcrwlr
So, since Generis is smart, I moved the whole arrangement to the outside of the frame rails. This way, there's a much straighter angle from the down links to the axle.
I turned my attention to the front axle. Fully built and cheated on. Beef tubes, HR locker, HR Overdrive, Axial Universals, Vanquish turning bits, and titanium steering links.
This amount of steering is ludicrous. Obviously, once there's shocks on there, it'll never steer that much, but wow.
Any truck worth it's mettle, needs a GCM transfer case.
Coming along very nicely for sure. Digging the cantilever rear setup, I love mine.
mmm vp on this rig maybe won't be the right choice...
what is the target width, wheels mounted?
ok but class 2 comps? because you will be too large in the comp with this configuration... by the wAY.... is your choice
Originally Posted by imthatguy
Same width as a standard scx10
Originally Posted by SEYCHELLES
What he said.
Originally Posted by pardonmyn00b
Thanks to comping in the woods and seeing friends again, I've got a couple more necessary pieces to get this build going again.
The front motor mount and dual servo mount from GCM is a choice bit of kit. It gives you the solid mount points for a winch, servo, and moves your transmission forward for transfer case points.
Nice strong connection between my transmission and transfer case makes for a spacious full interior.
HR hardened steel gears in the transmission and an 88T 48P Spur from Robinson Racing. Oh, and a TZi Winch for winching. I can attest with total certainty that this winch will easily alter courses before it would fail. I pulled a 10 pound boulder out of the course this weekend, along with the Range Rover Classic, which is a 12 pound truck. That's at least, eleventeen pounds.
Where is your servo going to fit in that bundle of goodness?
Is there space behind the servo winch ???
Steering servo will go behind winch. He has the GCM dual servo mount.
Correct, servo goes behind winch. You'll see in the below progress report.
Body got a few minor cuts.
Rear end got a significant bob. 1.25 inches if I recall. There's a bunch of filling, sanding, filling, priming, sanding, priming to do, but it's back in one piece again.
I'm not entirely sure I'm going to stick with this rear end the way it is, but it gives me a starting point for something wilder.
Look at those approach and departure angles!
Big tires make me happy. As big as Class 2 will allow, and proven in last season's comps, courtesy of n00b. I had these on my Class 2 Tuber Cruiser and I'm looking forward to using them this go around. I added Crawler Innovations lil' Nova's as the stock foams are a bit soft. Yes, those fenders are going to be trimmed.
A few new parts arrived. I'm excited to get these together and then break things.
Oops, I borked my Tork. It's going to get better from here.
In between body stuff, I shifted the front end to a three link with pan hard setup courtesy of GCM. Easy to go together and gives a nice scale look. I bent my pan hard and it felt good. Also buttoned up the rear cantilever links. Buttery smooth
Smoothed out some lines with a bit of filler and also started looking at ride height.
Love that the wheels represent the '91-'92 fj80 OEM stock.
Funny you went with the cantilever rear, when you could probably cover tall rear shock tower easily with a tonneau over the bed.
Nevermind, you're probably gonna' build out a super detailed interior. Carry on, subscribed!
Man, I can't believe how long it's been since I updated this thread. Sadly, not much has happened. Other than a few minor things and a bunch of list making.
I finished up the trunk/bed and cleaned up some light bucket covers.
Started thinking about dashboard and it's placement. I'll be stealing some ideas from Magnum's thread, but because this is comp turk, it can't have all the detail. Same shape, less buttons.
Cleaned up the JDM spec licence plate holder with much styrene and elbow grease. I mocked up a spare holder for the bed as well. Digging that look. And I need the points.
Something seems... wider.
Because it is. In order to clear the shocks and steering links, I needed to add some Hex wideners from RC4WD. Much drilling was required to make them work out of the box, but I'm very happy I did. Crawler Innovations foams all the way around should also help with sidehilling. Success. Still legal, but barely.