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Thread: TenderFoot

  1. #21
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    Jan 2015
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    Columbia, Tennessee
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    I finally got around to getting a "finished shot". Of course, they are never really finished. There are still a few things yet to do, mainly details, and a couple more things to install in order to get those last few scale points.




    I added a few decals, and a license plate.


    Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017 at 01:33 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
    <>< | MEAN STREAK | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor


  2. #22
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    Aug 2014
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    Sydney Australia
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    Well, it certainly shouldn't be difficult to pick yours out from a bunch of scale trucks.

    I like it.


    Come and check out 'Trailworx Garage' on Facebook and Youtube

  3. #23
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    Jan 2015
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    Columbia, Tennessee
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    Quote Originally Posted by pardonmyn00b View Post
    Oh that's pink! I love it
    Quote Originally Posted by H2Micr0 View Post
    Well, it certainly shouldn't be difficult to pick yours out from a bunch of scale trucks.

    I like it.
    Thanks. It is very pink. I should get some better shots out on the rocks this weekend. The grainy cell phone photos don't do it justice.
    <>< | MEAN STREAK | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor


  4. #24
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    Jan 2012
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    Tucson, Az
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    Good looking rig.

    What is the difference in ratios front to rear with the trans case mod?

    RC4WD TEAM DRIVER
    SARCCA club president

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by theinfidel View Post
    Good looking rig.

    What is the difference in ratios front to rear with the trans case mod?
    Good question.

    From my understanding, the stock transfer case has a gear reduction ratio of 1.47:1. Meaning the input (shaft from transmission) has to spin 1.47 revolutions to get the outputs (shafts to axles) to turn one revolution; or, if the input turns one revolution, the outputs only turn .68 revolutions (1 divided by 1.47). By changing the input from the transmission it creates a 1:1 ratio to the rear axle, and by default the output to the front axle has a 1.47 ratio. Meaning the input (shaft from the transmission) has to turn one revolution to get the rear output to turn one revolution (basically a direct input/output in this situation), while the front output would have turned 1.47 revolutions (1.47 divided by 1).

    So, the answer to your question is .47 (1.47 minus 1).
    Last edited by btoungette; 01-24-2017 at 12:39 PM. Reason: to answer the question
    <>< | MEAN STREAK | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor


  6. #26
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    Jan 2012
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    Tucson, Az
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    I see what you did now, I thought originally you just flipped the input shaft but I see now power is coming in through the output side, so yes, that would over drive the front. You seem to be in a good range compared to scx od/ud ratios.

    RC4WD TEAM DRIVER
    SARCCA club president

  7. #27
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    Jan 2015
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    Columbia, Tennessee
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    Now that I have it worked out, I want to share my winch set-up.
















    I mounted the winch to the underside of the servo cross-member. I used the winch plate that came with the RC4WD 1/10 Mini Warn 9.5cti Winch, a few spacers and small bolts & nuts. It hangs down some, but no lower than anything else already there.

    The real concern was the winch line and what to do with that to keep it from dragging and/or getting damaged and possibly breaking. I got a bright idea to put a brace between the spring perches and I think it turned out great. It's just aluminum flat stock with a RC4WD Viking 1/10 Aluminum Winch Fairlead on the back side and RC4WD Aluminum 1/10 Winch Fairlead on the front to prevent the line from snagging.

    I like it.
    Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017 at 01:38 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
    <>< | MEAN STREAK | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor


  8. #28
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    Aug 2014
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    Sydney Australia
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    Some interesting ideas for mounting the winch.

    It looks big but I think you are right and it shouldn't get in the way too much.


    Come and check out 'Trailworx Garage' on Facebook and Youtube

  9. #29
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    Jan 2015
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    Columbia, Tennessee
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    Ran this rig Saturday in Round #1 of our local comp, and came away with a 1st place win.

    Two 10-gate courses; full SORRCA rules.




    Saturday was technically the second run for this rig. The first ended within ten minutes with some white smoke from under the hood - a little heat issue.

    I had some concerns going into Saturday, but I think the rig performed great. It was predictable and stable, which is important to me.

    I did see a couple of issues - tires and electronics.

    I felt the tires cost me a couple of reverses. There were a couple of spots that the tires didn't grip well enough and I had to reverse and try again. I'll revisit the tire choice.

    The electronics, specifically the ESC/TX, felt glitchy. I have my other BR-XL ESCs programmed to compensate for the FlySky hair-trigger. I felt like that was not done with this rig. I'll need to verify the programming to know for sure. I plan to switch over to Futaba, but didn't have time to do all that before Round #1.

    So, there's a small list to complete before Round #2 - TX/RX, tires (and possibly wheels), painting the driver, and add details to the interior.
    Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017 at 01:41 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
    <>< | MEAN STREAK | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor


  10. #30
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    Jan 2015
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    Round #2 is in the books, and and what a round it was! Lot's of good driving on display. I managed to get a 3rd place finish.

    Got the first real dings on the body after a roll off the rock at gate 10 on course 2. No real damage from what I could tell from initial check - some scrapes and dust residue.

    The RC4WD Dirt Grabber tires did fine. No complaints there. The correct programming of the ESC was definitely evident this round; much, much better control.

    Steering... what little there is really does cause the reverse penalties to add up. Even with the over drive mod, without the room to use the throttle, it does little to help on the course with tight gates. I have an idea (or two) to help that issue some... but, there is more research to do first.

    Other than the steering, I see no needed adjustments at this point. If we ran the same course over and over, I would tune different (obviously). But, the way the series plays out is not based on one location. The rigs have to consistently do well, no mater the location/terrain/course. At least, that's the way I approach my rig tuning.

    Here is a photo fellow RC4WD Team Driver SteveC6R took, and I edited, to serve as a memento of the occasion.




    I still need to do a once-over to check for unseen carnage. I'll keep you posted if any issues are found.
    Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017 at 01:42 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
    <>< | MEAN STREAK | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor


  11. #31
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    [COLOR=#ff66cc][SIZE=3]Round #3 is in the books, and I had an average day. I got some good scratches on the body and a third place finish.

    Got to try the Duratrac tires for the first time. Jury is still out on those simply due to the little run-time I have on them. I love the way they look on the rig.

    Couple of issues, but no surprises really. Steering, or lack thereof. Besides the usual lack of throw, the rig seemed to turn less to the left than the right. I'm not sure what that was about. And the brace in the front below the bumper got hung-up quite a bit. In fact, the brace got a little bent due to meeting with an obstacle along the way. The winch grabbed a rock or two, also.




    Couple of things I'm not satisfied with on this rig; the steering throw and the front suspension travel. Both have been discussed over and over. I have a few things I want to try in regards to the suspension fix, including entertaining the idea of going three link in the front.

    I don't want a lot of flex. I like the front to work less than the back, but I want more up-travel (compression) than I'm getting now. I fiddled with the shocks a bit yesterday, but I made it worse. I have no real plan other than tinker here and there to see if anything helps.

    Here's a photo for keepsakes...

    Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017 at 01:54 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
    <>< | MEAN STREAK | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor


  12. #32
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    Jan 2015
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    Columbia, Tennessee
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    I'm going to share some before photos and some after photos with the steering turned to full lock both ways. The before photos are with the stock TF2 Yota axle and stock dog-bones. The after photos are with a G2 Yota II axles and XVDs.

    BEFORE:










    AFTER:










    Here are a couple zoomed out with the Yota II set-up:






    Any more steering and it would be pointless with the current set-up of leaf springs and the wheel offset I am running.

    Thoughts?
    Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017 at 01:55 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
    <>< | MEAN STREAK | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor


  13. #33
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    So, one of the things that made the 45 degree steering of the Yota II axles is the XVD Axle for Ultimate Scale Yota II G2 Axle.




    I took the Yota II front axle from another rig and swapped it in this rig. Before I did that, I opened up the diff to add some grease. I used RC4WD Red Lubrication for Transmission & Axles.








    I added the XVDs and noticed some slop in the in-and-out of the axle shaft. I added a small o-ring behind the pin to keep things from moving so much.






    I think the axle swap from the Yota to the Yota II will be beneficial. I still have some tweaks I'd like to do. The negative caster is a little much due to the blocks under the springs. That causes a little awkwardness in turning. I'll revisit that situation later. Overall, I am satisfied with the change, so far.






    I also changed foams in the tires. More on that in a separate thread: view it here.

    I checked everything over and it looks like it's ready for round #5.
    Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017 at 01:57 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
    <>< | MEAN STREAK | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor


  14. #34
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    Jan 2015
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    Columbia, Tennessee
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    Got some time to tinker last evening. I have long thought I needed more flex in the front. I have the spring hangers swapped around with Tamiya Bruiser leaf spring stays and G2 shock hoops and the 90mm shocks, but without RC4WD Teraflex Revolver Shackles or RC4WD Teraflex Revolver Z-Boxes the flex is limited by both the shock and the spring hangers.

    All I did was put the 70mm shocks back on, in the bottom hole on the G2 hoop, and used Traxxas rod ends like I had on the 90mm ones. That change allowed more compression while maintaining the same amount of droop/extension. It's not a big change, but it allowed for more flex which should help with stiff suspension and roll-overs. I'm not ready for the mega-flex of the Revolver Shackles & Z-Boxes... baby steps.

    One of those addition by subtraction circumstances.

    No photos.
    <>< | MEAN STREAK | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor


  15. #35
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    Jan 2015
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    Columbia, Tennessee
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    We have carnage!






    Looks like the body took a hard hit behind the left front tire and cracked. I'm sure it was one of those many roll-overs on course two. I only managed a 6 out of 7 place finish (-6 pts), thanks in part to a DNF on course 2.

    I knew about the bed-hook being broken off, and I am surprised those have lasted this long. I'll use some Bondene to fix the cracks (and maybe reinforce the area). Not much can be done about the broken bed-hook.

    I didn't get to do a thorough once-over, just a quick look-see to check for obvious things. I give it a good once-over later.

    I thought the rig performed okay. The tires weren't always helpful. I think it's the closed cell foams that are keeping the tires from flexing and gripping rocks. I plan to review the foam options and probably make a change.

    The Yota II steering axle has done great, and has helped in a few situations. I may go ahead and change the rear axle to a Yota II, just so they match. I have it available; so, why not?
    <>< | MEAN STREAK | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor


  16. #36
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    Apr 2017
    Location
    Western states
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    You have a good looking truck. Ouch the body took a beating, lol. To bad after all the work that goes into it. Guess it's part of the rc game. Time for some body work or a new body for you?

  17. #37
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    Columbia, Tennessee
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    You have a good looking truck. Ouch the body took a beating, lol. To bad after all the work that goes into it. Guess it's part of the rc game. Time for some body work or a new body for you?
    Thanks. Beating these rigs is part of the comp scene. If I was just trailing it, I would have caught it and stopped it from rolling. It tumbled a few times though.

    I'll try repairing the body first, then if needed I can do up a new cap in the off-season.
    <>< | MEAN STREAK | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor


  18. #38
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    I worked some on repairing the cracked body. It was not a clean break. It looked like it had cracked and then the plastic was stressed then broke further. The inside of the crack was partially white like the plastic was stressed (kinda like a plastic spoon when you bend it until it breaks).






    I tried to use Bondene and my hands to repair the joint, but it wouldn't stay together. It would shift when I let go of it. Usually, the Bondene bonds the pieces in about 30-60 seconds, but that was not the case here. I had to use some bracing to get the crack to close and line-up properly. It dried over night and continues drying today. I may hit it again with another round of Bondene before removing the braces. That spot will probably need some reinforcement.








    I looked everything else over and checked the screws & nuts; everything was good. I added a few washers on the front inner fenders to help secure them from where the holes have ripped. Other than finishing the body repair and maybe adjusting foams, it's good to go.
    <>< | MEAN STREAK | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor


  19. #39
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    Apr 2017
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    Western states
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    Hey it's almost as good as new right, lol. That's ok get the most out of the body anyway. I'm jeolous seeing pictures of even the damaged body, makes me wish my tf2 was complete and ready to run. Guess I'll have to beat up on my new trx-4 when it shows up.

  20. #40
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    Jan 2015
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    Columbia, Tennessee
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    I added some reinforcement to the crack. I used some parts-tree material & Bondene to add a little material to reinforce the area after removing some paint with sandpaper. It's been drying over the weekend.



    <>< | MEAN STREAK | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor


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