TenderFoot

[denty444]

great work so far, looking forward to seeing the rest.

[btoungette]

great work so far, looking forward to seeing the rest.

thanks

[btoungette]

While I failed to snap a photo last night of the complete rig, I did have some photos of the detailed lights I can share.







I simply used Testors model paint in metallic silver for the reflective bits, and sharpies for the color on the lenses. Not bad for my first go'round with this level of detailed building.

[H2Micr0]

Detail work on the lights is great.

I might have to do a truck in that sort of colour, just to annoy some of my mates LOL.

[pardonmyn00b]

Oh that's pink! I love it

[btoungette]

I finally got around to getting a "finished shot". Of course, they are never really finished. There are still a few things yet to do, mainly details, and a couple more things to install in order to get those last few scale points.




I added a few decals, and a license plate.

[H2Micr0]

Well, it certainly shouldn't be difficult to pick yours out from a bunch of scale trucks.

I like it.

[btoungette]

Oh that's pink! I love it

Well, it certainly shouldn't be difficult to pick yours out from a bunch of scale trucks.

I like it.

Thanks. It is very pink. I should get some better shots out on the rocks this weekend. The grainy cell phone photos don't do it justice.

[theinfidel]

Good looking rig.

What is the difference in ratios front to rear with the trans case mod?

[btoungette]

Good looking rig.

What is the difference in ratios front to rear with the trans case mod?

Good question.

From my understanding, the stock transfer case has a gear reduction ratio of 1.47:1. Meaning the input (shaft from transmission) has to spin 1.47 revolutions to get the outputs (shafts to axles) to turn one revolution; or, if the input turns one revolution, the outputs only turn .68 revolutions (1 divided by 1.47). By changing the input from the transmission it creates a 1:1 ratio to the rear axle, and by default the output to the front axle has a 1.47 ratio. Meaning the input (shaft from the transmission) has to turn one revolution to get the rear output to turn one revolution (basically a direct input/output in this situation), while the front output would have turned 1.47 revolutions (1.47 divided by 1).

So, the answer to your question is .47 (1.47 minus 1).

[theinfidel]

I see what you did now, I thought originally you just flipped the input shaft but I see now power is coming in through the output side, so yes, that would over drive the front. You seem to be in a good range compared to scx od/ud ratios.

[btoungette]

Now that I have it worked out, I want to share my winch set-up.












I mounted the winch to the underside of the servo cross-member. I used the winch plate that came with the RC4WD 1/10 Mini Warn 9.5cti Winch, a few spacers and small bolts & nuts. It hangs down some, but no lower than anything else already there.

The real concern was the winch line and what to do with that to keep it from dragging and/or getting damaged and possibly breaking. I got a bright idea to put a brace between the spring perches and I think it turned out great. It's just aluminum flat stock with a RC4WD Viking 1/10 Aluminum Winch Fairlead on the back side and RC4WD Aluminum 1/10 Winch Fairlead on the front to prevent the line from snagging.

I like it.

[H2Micr0]

Some interesting ideas for mounting the winch.

It looks big but I think you are right and it shouldn't get in the way too much.

[btoungette]

Ran this rig Saturday in Round #1 of our local comp, and came away with a 1st place win.

Two 10-gate courses; full SORRCA rules.

Saturday was technically the second run for this rig. The first ended within ten minutes with some white smoke from under the hood - a little heat issue.

I had some concerns going into Saturday, but I think the rig performed great. It was predictable and stable, which is important to me.

I did see a couple of issues - tires and electronics.

I felt the tires cost me a couple of reverses. There were a couple of spots that the tires didn't grip well enough and I had to reverse and try again. I'll revisit the tire choice.

The electronics, specifically the ESC/TX, felt glitchy. I have my other BR-XL ESCs programmed to compensate for the FlySky hair-trigger. I felt like that was not done with this rig. I'll need to verify the programming to know for sure. I plan to switch over to Futaba, but didn't have time to do all that before Round #1.

So, there's a small list to complete before Round #2 - TX/RX, tires (and possibly wheels), painting the driver, and add details to the interior.

[btoungette]

Round #2 is in the books, and and what a round it was! Lot's of good driving on display. I managed to get a 3rd place finish.

Got the first real dings on the body after a roll off the rock at gate 10 on course 2. No real damage from what I could tell from initial check - some scrapes and dust residue.

The RC4WD Dirt Grabber tires did fine. No complaints there. The correct programming of the ESC was definitely evident this round; much, much better control.

Steering... what little there is really does cause the reverse penalties to add up. Even with the over drive mod, without the room to use the throttle, it does little to help on the course with tight gates. I have an idea (or two) to help that issue some... but, there is more research to do first.

Other than the steering, I see no needed adjustments at this point. If we ran the same course over and over, I would tune different (obviously). But, the way the series plays out is not based on one location. The rigs have to consistently do well, no mater the location/terrain/course. At least, that's the way I approach my rig tuning.

Here is a photo fellow RC4WD Team Driver SteveC6R took, and I edited, to serve as a memento of the occasion.




I still need to do a once-over to check for unseen carnage. I'll keep you posted if any issues are found.