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Thread: Mean Streak

  1. #21
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    October 22, 2016

    Just finished the assembly of the transmission after a cleaning and greasing (with Mobil 1 red synthetic). It now has the 56t spur and a 9t pinion. The motor is bottomed out on the motor plate and that provided the perfect mesh between spur and pinion. Now to get it back in the chassis...








    Last edited by btoungette; 12-07-2017 at 06:45 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
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  2. #22
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    October 24, 2016

    I spent Saturday morning putting things back together. It was a little easier than expected. Obviously, it was easier to pry the skid back in place versus trying to get it out. Everything is buttoned up for the most part. I need to plug the motor to the ESC and do some testing. I'd like to get some time with the rear shocks, too.










    As you can see, the motor is as close to the transmission as it can go without modifying the motor mount. Even with that, the mesh seems great. The 56t spur and 9t pinion gives it a 6.2222222 ratio. That's down from a 4.91; so, it should lower motor temps and add some grunt. I'll continue to run the Axial sealed can 27t motor for now because I'll be able to compare to before the ratio change. Once I'm comfortable that the motor-heat issue is under control, I'll put a better motor in it. I have a couple of Br00d motors available, or I can send the Holmes motor back for a rebuild (which is what should happen).


    Last edited by btoungette; 12-07-2017 at 06:43 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
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  3. #23
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    November 23, 2016

    I spent some time tonight getting this rig ready for the Monthly Run on Saturday.

    I added some preload to the rear shocks - eight turns on the preload collar. I may end-up changing some springs to get it the way I want it. It's tune, then test, rinse and repeat... right?

    I took some time to repair the inner fenders from where I had cracked a few joints (that sounds illegal, in some states) when I was removing the cage for the spur gear change. Some super glue and those were back to good.

    The only thing left was hooking-up the motor and testing everything. I may have mentioned this before, but for some reason the motor runs backwards from what it should. I have to wire it backwards to get it to go forward when pulling the trigger on the controller. I've checked the ESC programing and the controller. Both are no different than the settings on my other rigs. The transmission/skid/motor are oriented correctly per Axial SCX-10 instructions. The axle ring gears can only be installed one way in the Curries; and, the other VP axles had the ring gear oriented the same way as the Curries. I can't remember if the Holmes motor that came in this rig was wired backwards... but, that might have contributed to it's failure (and the heat issues with this motor). I'll investigate this reverse-motor debacle and let you know if I find anything.

    Sorry, no photos of these mundane things...

    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
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  4. #24
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    December 3, 2016

    Got a little testing in last week at the Monthly Run at Cedars. There was not a lot of opportunity, but I did manage to try a few spots that required some wheel-speed. Checked the motor temp after a hard hill climb and the temp was about 50 degrees above ambient temperature. For the cool day of last Saturday, that is fine; but for normal use that seems to be a little warm. The gearing definitely helped. I didn't notice any loss in performance, as far as wheel-speed is concerned. I'd like to get this motor heat situation dialed in before the warm weather arrives back in the mid-state.

    Here's a photo from the day's activities:




    I need to clean it and do a once-over. I'll give it some attention this weekend.
    Last edited by btoungette; 12-07-2017 at 06:41 PM. Reason: Photobucket ransom
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  5. #25
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    December 5, 2016



    Well, I did some more testing to see why the motor has to turn reverse-rotation to get the rig to go correctly.

    It's the darn Currie RockJock axle design. They are designed with provisions for the ring gear to be installed only one way. The wrong way for an SCX-10. They were apparently designed around the Wraith AR60 OCP, which have the ring gear on the left side facing the axle. The SCX-10 needs the ring gear on the right.

    I thought I had researched this very topic a few weeks ago and found that was not the issue. Was I ever wrong!

    So, no changing the gears to correct the situation. I can reverse the ESC on the remote or wire the motor backwards (which is how it's been).

    I feel kinda dumb after re-calibrating the ESC and trying a couple of motor and ESC combos. Then the problem was obvious when I compared axles side by side.

    I'll just put the Axial motor back in it, and plug it up backwards for now.
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  6. #26
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    Okay, now you are caught up with the progress.

    Let's see where it goes from here...
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  7. #27
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    Aug 2014
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    Well, that is quite the adventure.

    Will wait and see what is next LOL.


    Come and check out 'Trailworx Garage' on Facebook and Youtube

  8. #28
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    I am currently in the middle of refurbishing the body. I have stripped the decals off and sanded the body. I decided to remove the rear door hinges and handles and make it a two-door brute style body. The rear doors never looked right the way the body was modified. I have filler in the door recesses and will smooth that out and lay down some new paint. I am leaning toward painting it white.

    Here's a photo of the second round of green putty after the first round had been sanded down. (My first time using this putty on my crawler bodies, or any putty for that matter.)



    Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017 at 03:24 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
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  9. #29
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    Nov 2014
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    Spartanburg, SC
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    The first time I built a set of Curries, I found out about the rotation issue. I was freaking out until I installed the rear axle and all was good!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


  10. #30
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    I took advantage of the beautiful day today and laid down some white paint on the body.

    To be honest, I'm not 100% sold on this color. It shows too much of the imperfections. Black might have been better...

    I will detail the handles, wipers, grille and bits on the hood to have it ready for Round#1 of our local comp series.






    The removal of the rear doors came out okay, I guess.
    Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017 at 03:22 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
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  11. #31
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    Aug 2014
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    Paintwork looks fine to me.

    And you are only going to scratch it on the rocks!!


    Come and check out 'Trailworx Garage' on Facebook and Youtube

  12. #32
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    Worked on getting the body near finished. I must say that I DO NOT like detail painting by hand. My O.C.D. goes off the chart with small imperfections. I guess sometimes we just need to let it go...

    I also wanted change the wheels and tires. The wheels will get used on another project, and I wanted to turn to trusty TSLs for my tires. The TSLs have CI Duece's Wild foams all around.

    Once I got the decals on, the detail painting somewhat done, and the wheels and tires mounted up, it actually looks pretty good.













    Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017 at 03:21 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
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  13. #33
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    Ran this rig in Round #1 of our local comp series. I came away with 1st place in Class 2.

    Two 10-gate courses; full SORRCA rules.




    Saturday was the first run since the refresh of the body. I think the rig did well, despite the long wheel-base. This rig has always been a solid performer; I have just hesitated to comp with it due to the long wheelbase. I did incur at least one reverse penalty due to the wheelbase. I had to reverse and add a little extra juice to get over a rock and through the gate.

    I think the motor is the only thing that needs to change at this point. I'll change the TX/RX to Futaba. I may change a few scale details. But, the motor was the only real issue I had. The Axial sealed-can motor (which was supposed to be temporary but has been in this rig for a while) just didn't have enough power in a couple situations. I'm not sure it cost me any penalties, but it needs changed nonetheless. I need motor wired soldered on the new motor I have and then I can swap them out.
    Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017 at 03:19 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
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  14. #34
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    What the heck was that? Yep, that was Round #2... I ended up in 4th place; no podium finish.

    This round had three 10-gate courses, and they were challenging, if I do say so myself (I helped SteveC6R set them up).

    Let's just say... not my best outing... but, I've had worse. Still, I was a few bubbles off center. However, I got to see some great driving.

    The one issue I had was very unexpected. On course 1, I notice the slipper would slip way too soon for my liking when the rig was in a slight bind. It got a touch worse as I progressed the course. I'd chalk up a couple of reverse penalties to just that issue. It was easily corrected after course 1 by simply tightening the slipper nut. I didn't notice it being an issue again. I'll add that to the list to check once I get to do a once-over.

    Steering seemed to be the buzzword of the day. I noticed at least one spot that my steering wasn't a sharp as it should be because of the 4-link set-up with the CMS. I may decide to go to a three link set-up. The one spot I noticed the steering was less than normal was with the right tire dropped in a crevasse and the rig needing to turn sharp left to line up for an approach to gate 7 on course 1. Not sure if I can blame that for any penalties, but I need to ponder on changing the set-up.

    Always be tuning. Right?

    I got zero photos of MEAN STREAK this round. (Kinda sad, really.)
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
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  15. #35
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    I found a photo that SteveC6R took just after the situation I mentioned in my previous post.




    The left gate marker is just in front of the rig. Progress/direction is right, through the gate, down the rock, and around to the flags in the background.

    The rig ended up rolling off the rock, taking a gate (or two) and incurring a roll-over penalty to get right side up.
    Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017 at 03:06 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
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  16. #36
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    Aug 2014
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    Sydney Australia
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    Several builds have proved to me that a CMS and 4 Link just don't work reliably.

    A 3 link with Panhard works every time, I highly recommend it.


    Come and check out 'Trailworx Garage' on Facebook and Youtube

  17. #37
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    Columbia, Tennessee
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    Quote Originally Posted by H2Micr0 View Post
    Several builds have proved to me that a CMS and 4 Link just don't work reliably.

    A 3 link with Panhard works every time, I highly recommend it.

    A 3-link set-up is what I've ran on all my other rigs (except one with the servo on the axle).

    This rig came to me with different axles that didn't have a 3-link truss option. I didn't have real issues with it before, but it wasn't used in comps either.

    I agree, it needs to be changed, especially now that it can be.
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
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  18. #38
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    I got the 3-link and panhard bits installed last night. No major issues encountered.

    One of the more annoying steps that had to take place is modifying the stock plastic shock tower/chassis brace. One "ear" had to be removed to allow for the VP panhard chassis mount to be installed.




    That was a pain because I didn't want to disassemble the whole rig to get that one piece cut. I eventually cut it with side-snips while prying it for clearance with a screwdriver.

    The parts that installed on the axle went on without issue. Provided hardware + blue thread locker = secured.











    After everything was in place, I found the panhard bar touched the diff cover limiting full compression of the suspension.






    I plan to do some adjusting tonight to hopefully get better clearance to allow full compression of the suspension - at least full articulation.

    While I had the axle removed from the rig, I deceided to remove a c-hub screw that was stripped when I traded for these axles. A few minutes with the dremel and a flat screw driver took care of that problem. I replaced it with a fresh stainless piece and some blue thread lock. (It looks like it had red thread locker on it.)

    Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017 at 03:05 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
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  19. #39
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    I worked some on the panhard bar situation. I tried a couple of different way to position the panhard, but to no avail. It looks like it was designed to go on one way - with the bend point towards the rear. I understand this will work in most situations because the bend should clear the diff cover and 3-link, but I have the axle pushed forward more than a stock SCX-10.

    No matter what I tried, the panhard bar would hit the frame, or the 3-link mount, or the diff cover, or all of the above. I resolved to using bump-stops on the front shocks. Not necessarily to prevent contact at full compression, but to eliminate contact on full articulation. The rear 4-link truss hits the chassis brace at full compression but there is no contact on full articulation. I wanted the front to be the same.

    I started out with half of an Axial stock shock bump-stop which measured to about 5mm. I removed the shocks and installed the bump-stop.






    After cycling the suspension several times, I determined that the right (passenger) side needed a little more bump-stop (*cowbell*). I notched the inner fender to allow the chassis-side panhard rod end to touch the chassis. I removed the shock and replaced the 5mm piece with a 7mm piece.




    That piece didn't completely fix the situation. There is still contact at full compression, barely, but still enough to make a noise to let you know it's touching. It did allow full articulation without sounding off that the link touched the frame. You can see that there is still contact at full compression.






    I know that the rig would perform fine without going through the bump-stop thing, but I like to keep things mechanically sound and my installs "clean". The addition of the bump-stops will limit articulation some, but I usually run them on my rigs because I feel too much flex can be a bad thing.

    I need to adjust the length of the panhard bar to better center the front axle. That should easily be done with a few turns of the rod ends.

    I usually do all these adjustments as I am building the rig, but this time happens to be a rig I didn't assemble. It's still fun & games.
    Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017 at 03:03 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
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  20. #40
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    Looks good man...



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