Gelande 18th
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Thread: Raffle-1

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    Columbia, Tennessee
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    Default Raffle-1

    introducing....

    RAFFLE-1




    I attended the RC4WD “Tuckaleechee Trail” RECON G6 at RRW Krawlzone - TN this past weekend, and I was lucky enough to come home with an extra box.




    Lucky number 9810963.




    A big thanks to RC4WD and RECON G6 for the great prize - RC4WD Gelande II RTR Truck Kit w/Cruiser Body Set.




    As you can see I removed the rig from the box to give it a quick look-over.

    First impression was that the color is not as orange as depicted on the box. Not really orange at all. More along the line of tan/beige with a tinge of olive. It's one of those colors that mimics the FJ40 factory colors of years past. I like it.

    First thing I had to do was add some RECON G6 decals because without attending a RECON G6, I wouldn't have this rig. I'm sure I'll add more decals...








    I had some trouble removing the body from the chassis. Come to find out, the chassis mount (that the body pins to) was rotated slightly binding the post against the mount. Simple fix.




    I was excited to plug in a battery and drive this thing around, but forgot about plug on the ESC - it's doesn't match my batteries. So, the fun will have to wait until the plug can be changed to match my batteries.




    I noticed the slipper nut looked a little loose for my liking. I'll tighten that up some before running it.




    I'll change the wheels to a six-lug wheel to keep with Toyota's style.




    Other than those few things, I plan to approach this "build" as a first-timer - someone new to the RTR world (which this is my first RTR rig). I'll do a once-over to check things before running it, but as far as modifying, I want to keep it simple and upgrade as needed. I know there is a list of things folks change, but I want to see what works and doesn't work before changing things up.

    A few more photos:





    Last edited by btoungette; 07-25-2017 at 06:45 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    Columbia, Tennessee
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    Default

    I had a couple chances to work on this rig some in the last few weeks. I received the plug for the ESC to battery connection, and a lipo alarm (due to the ESC not having lipo cutoff).




    I changed to some 6 Lug Wagon 1.9" Steel Stamped Beadlock Wheels (White) to get closer to a true Toyota 6-lug wheel that may have been used back in the day. I kept the Dirt Grabber 1.9" All Terrain Tires. I vented the tires because that's what I like. I'm sure new foams (or maybe new tires) will be needed soon enough.




    I added an RC4WD 1/10 Warn 9.5cti Winch for those times when some assistance will be needed. I also got a customized plate for the front, and registered with the state for a vanity plate with the winning ticket numbers. Wait, it's already expired! (The month and year are when I won this rig.)






    I did run the rig around the house for a few minutes. It worked as expected. From that few minutes, I can tell there are things I need to adjust or address. I want to get some time on trails and/or rocks before I start doing major mods or changes.

    I have a few things on the short list, but I am putting this rig aside for a bit; so, I can concentrate on the rigs I compete with in our SORRCA events.


    Last edited by btoungette; 07-25-2017 at 06:42 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  3. #3
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    I've been going back and forth with the tire choice for this rig. I wanted something in the 4.19" range to keep it Class 1 legal, but with a substantial presence. Those large front wheel opening scream for a larger tire, while the rear opening make most tires look big.

    I had an extra set of the Pit Bull Growlers in the 1.55 variety; so, I took a shot at mounting them on the white 1.9 RC4WD steel wheels. Much to my surprise, it was easier than mounting other 1.9 tires on those wheels.

    I used the included outer foams that came with the tires and added some Crawler Innovations closed cell inners from some 4.25" Lil Nova foams I had in the spare parts box. They fit great. I only had one pair of those Lil Nova foams to rob from; so, I had to order some CWR-3006 to complete the project.

    I know the tires work, and I like how they look on the 1.9 wheels. I'll need to do some adjusting to get the stance down a little.









    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Lyon, France
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    34

    Default

    Nice thread !
    You're very lucky, i'm going to the next Recon in Belgium, hope to have your chance !
    The color of the rtr body look as right choice in my opinion, when i will build my Cruiser, i plan to paint it in an approching color.

  5. #5
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    Jan 2015
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    Columbia, Tennessee
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    I took some time last evening between commercial breaks to upgrade the driveshafts.

    I had purchased these shafts for another project, but they were way too short.




    Here are what the stock ones look like installed.




    I have my concerns -- they engage enough, but are loose.




    Here the new ones are installed.



    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Everett, WA
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    Nice update for the Cruiser. I eventually broke one of my RTR's driveshafts, and have some metal ones to go in their place. Do you have any plans to apply a mod for quicker removal of the body? I saw an o-ring mod that looked like it might be worthwhile, but haven't messed with my Cruiser enough to bother with it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcdabbler View Post
    Nice update for the Cruiser. I eventually broke one of my RTR's driveshafts, and have some metal ones to go in their place.
    Thanks.


    Quote Originally Posted by rcdabbler View Post
    Do you have any plans to apply a mod for quicker removal of the body? I saw an o-ring mod that looked like it might be worthwhile, but haven't messed with my Cruiser enough to bother with it.
    I haven't dug too much into changing the body mounting process. The body clips are aggravating to get to, but are well hidden. I have another Gelande 2 with Cruiser body that you may have seen (agentORANGE), and with that truck I use small angled needle nose pliers to remove and install the body clips. I lean the truck up on it's rear bumper and install the front clips first, and then lean it up on the front bumper to install the rear clips. That seems to work best for me. I recently had to change a battery in the middle of the forest at a G6 event, and it wasn't too bad. Luckily, there was a scale bridge about chest high that I used for a workbench. I like how the clips hold the body tight and secure.

    How do the o-rings come into play?
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  8. #8
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    Jun 2015
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    Everett, WA
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    This thread references that o-ring mod: http://www.rc4wdforum.com/showthread...gt-Cruiser-Kit

  9. #9
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    Jan 2015
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    Columbia, Tennessee
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcdabbler View Post
    This thread references that o-ring mod: http://www.rc4wdforum.com/showthread...gt-Cruiser-Kit
    Interesting, and a good idea. My issue would be the o-ring being below the slider to rub rocks and obstacles. With the way I use my trucks, that o-ring might not last long. However, I may give it a try on this truck to see how it does. Thanks for the link.
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  10. #10
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    Jan 2015
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    I worked on the shocks some this past weekend.

    What got me on this task was the shocks were very stiff, no movement at all without forcing them to compress a few times. I planned to open them up and add a few drops of shock oil to see if that would help. So, I did just that.

    I removed each shock, and added a few drops of some Pit Bull 33w shock oil I had won at a recent event. Three drops in the shock to lubricate the piston, one drop under the bottom cap on the o-ring, and one drop on the shaft itself.

    While I had the socks apart, I added blue thread locker to the rod end that screws onto the shock shaft to keep it in place. Don't want those to come loose on the trail.




    Another thing I chose to do is change where the rear socks secure to the axle. Stock location is sharing a screw with the lower link, as seen below.




    I moved it to the axle itself, as seen below.




    I feel this adds a little stability to the truck. It lowers the ride height slightly, but I overcome that by using the lower hole on the chassis rear shock mount, and the upper hole for the front shocks.

    All you need is two M3x12mm button head cap screws, and two 3mm Con Washers.




    The M3x12mm will secure the link to the axle mount.




    The stock shock/link screw will now be used along with the 3mm Con Washer for securing the shock to the axle.




    Here is what it will look like when finished. Don't forget to add blue thread locker to the screws as you go. The link screw will not be accessible after you mount the shock in this location.


    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | plan B | RAFFLE-1 | pROCKtor
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


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