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Thread: Raffle-1

  1. #1
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    Default Raffle-1

    introducing....

    RAFFLE-1




    I attended the RC4WD “Tuckaleechee Trail” RECON G6 at RRW Krawlzone - TN this past weekend, and I was lucky enough to come home with an extra box.




    Lucky number 9810963.




    A big thanks to RC4WD and RECON G6 for the great prize - RC4WD Gelande II RTR Truck Kit w/Cruiser Body Set.




    As you can see I removed the rig from the box to give it a quick look-over.

    First impression was that the color is not as orange as depicted on the box. Not really orange at all. More along the line of tan/beige with a tinge of olive. It's one of those colors that mimics the FJ40 factory colors of years past. I like it.

    First thing I had to do was add some RECON G6 decals because without attending a RECON G6, I wouldn't have this rig. I'm sure I'll add more decals...








    I had some trouble removing the body from the chassis. Come to find out, the chassis mount (that the body pins to) was rotated slightly binding the post against the mount. Simple fix.




    I was excited to plug in a battery and drive this thing around, but forgot about plug on the ESC - it's doesn't match my batteries. So, the fun will have to wait until the plug can be changed to match my batteries.




    I noticed the slipper nut looked a little loose for my liking. I'll tighten that up some before running it.




    I'll change the wheels to a six-lug wheel to keep with Toyota's style.




    Other than those few things, I plan to approach this "build" as a first-timer - someone new to the RTR world (which this is my first RTR rig). I'll do a once-over to check things before running it, but as far as modifying, I want to keep it simple and upgrade as needed. I know there is a list of things folks change, but I want to see what works and doesn't work before changing things up.

    A few more photos:





    Last edited by btoungette; 07-25-2017 at 06:45 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  2. #2
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    I had a couple chances to work on this rig some in the last few weeks. I received the plug for the ESC to battery connection, and a lipo alarm (due to the ESC not having lipo cutoff).




    I changed to some 6 Lug Wagon 1.9" Steel Stamped Beadlock Wheels (White) to get closer to a true Toyota 6-lug wheel that may have been used back in the day. I kept the Dirt Grabber 1.9" All Terrain Tires. I vented the tires because that's what I like. I'm sure new foams (or maybe new tires) will be needed soon enough.




    I added an RC4WD 1/10 Warn 9.5cti Winch for those times when some assistance will be needed. I also got a customized plate for the front, and registered with the state for a vanity plate with the winning ticket numbers. Wait, it's already expired! (The month and year are when I won this rig.)






    I did run the rig around the house for a few minutes. It worked as expected. From that few minutes, I can tell there are things I need to adjust or address. I want to get some time on trails and/or rocks before I start doing major mods or changes.

    I have a few things on the short list, but I am putting this rig aside for a bit; so, I can concentrate on the rigs I compete with in our SORRCA events.


    Last edited by btoungette; 07-25-2017 at 06:42 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  3. #3
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    I've been going back and forth with the tire choice for this rig. I wanted something in the 4.19" range to keep it Class 1 legal, but with a substantial presence. Those large front wheel opening scream for a larger tire, while the rear opening make most tires look big.

    I had an extra set of the Pit Bull Growlers in the 1.55 variety; so, I took a shot at mounting them on the white 1.9 RC4WD steel wheels. Much to my surprise, it was easier than mounting other 1.9 tires on those wheels.

    I used the included outer foams that came with the tires and added some Crawler Innovations closed cell inners from some 4.25" Lil Nova foams I had in the spare parts box. They fit great. I only had one pair of those Lil Nova foams to rob from; so, I had to order some CWR-3006 to complete the project.

    I know the tires work, and I like how they look on the 1.9 wheels. I'll need to do some adjusting to get the stance down a little.









    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  4. #4
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    Nice thread !
    You're very lucky, i'm going to the next Recon in Belgium, hope to have your chance !
    The color of the rtr body look as right choice in my opinion, when i will build my Cruiser, i plan to paint it in an approching color.

  5. #5
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    I took some time last evening between commercial breaks to upgrade the driveshafts.

    I had purchased these shafts for another project, but they were way too short.




    Here are what the stock ones look like installed.




    I have my concerns -- they engage enough, but are loose.




    Here the new ones are installed.



    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  6. #6
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    Nice update for the Cruiser. I eventually broke one of my RTR's driveshafts, and have some metal ones to go in their place. Do you have any plans to apply a mod for quicker removal of the body? I saw an o-ring mod that looked like it might be worthwhile, but haven't messed with my Cruiser enough to bother with it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcdabbler View Post
    Nice update for the Cruiser. I eventually broke one of my RTR's driveshafts, and have some metal ones to go in their place.
    Thanks.


    Quote Originally Posted by rcdabbler View Post
    Do you have any plans to apply a mod for quicker removal of the body? I saw an o-ring mod that looked like it might be worthwhile, but haven't messed with my Cruiser enough to bother with it.
    I haven't dug too much into changing the body mounting process. The body clips are aggravating to get to, but are well hidden. I have another Gelande 2 with Cruiser body that you may have seen (agentORANGE), and with that truck I use small angled needle nose pliers to remove and install the body clips. I lean the truck up on it's rear bumper and install the front clips first, and then lean it up on the front bumper to install the rear clips. That seems to work best for me. I recently had to change a battery in the middle of the forest at a G6 event, and it wasn't too bad. Luckily, there was a scale bridge about chest high that I used for a workbench. I like how the clips hold the body tight and secure.

    How do the o-rings come into play?
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  8. #8
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    This thread references that o-ring mod: http://www.rc4wdforum.com/showthread...gt-Cruiser-Kit

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcdabbler View Post
    This thread references that o-ring mod: http://www.rc4wdforum.com/showthread...gt-Cruiser-Kit
    Interesting, and a good idea. My issue would be the o-ring being below the slider to rub rocks and obstacles. With the way I use my trucks, that o-ring might not last long. However, I may give it a try on this truck to see how it does. Thanks for the link.
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  10. #10
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    I worked on the shocks some this past weekend.

    What got me on this task was the shocks were very stiff, no movement at all without forcing them to compress a few times. I planned to open them up and add a few drops of shock oil to see if that would help. So, I did just that.

    I removed each shock, and added a few drops of some Pit Bull 33w shock oil I had won at a recent event. Three drops in the shock to lubricate the piston, one drop under the bottom cap on the o-ring, and one drop on the shaft itself.

    While I had the socks apart, I added blue thread locker to the rod end that screws onto the shock shaft to keep it in place. Don't want those to come loose on the trail.




    Another thing I chose to do is change where the rear socks secure to the axle. Stock location is sharing a screw with the lower link, as seen below.




    I moved it to the axle itself, as seen below.




    I feel this adds a little stability to the truck. It lowers the ride height slightly, but I overcome that by using the lower hole on the chassis rear shock mount, and the upper hole for the front shocks.

    All you need is two M3x12mm button head cap screws, and two 3mm Con Washers.




    The M3x12mm will secure the link to the axle mount.




    The stock shock/link screw will now be used along with the 3mm Con Washer for securing the shock to the axle.




    Here is what it will look like when finished. Don't forget to add blue thread locker to the screws as you go. The link screw will not be accessible after you mount the shock in this location.


    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  11. #11
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    I've been working on this rig some this past week getting it ready to go for 2018. Our local club added a Class 2 Spec class this year for trucks that are mostly box-stock with few changes allowed. This truck was the closest thing to box-stock that I had in the fleet. While I understand this rig may not perform with the likes of the Axial SCX-10.2, the Vaterra Ascender, or the HPI Venture, I think it will be fun to try.

    First things first, I had to get the shocks back to the stock location to comply with our C2SPEC rules.






    Now that we are back to stock, I could start with some items on the to-do list.

    I had an RC4WD Cruiser Body Emblem Set I had purchased a while back that needed to go on. I used E-6000 (black for the grille emblems, and clear for the others).










    I wanted to extend the wheelbase because I feel it needed a little to get the rear wheels in the arches correctly, and to add tot he overall wheelbase for stability. The C2SPEC rules allow for a total of +/- 0.25 inches of change in wheelbase; so, I added some RC4WD 3mm spacers in the rear and RC4WD 5mm spacers in the front to extend the wheel base slightly. According to my calculations, I still have a couple more millimeters I could extend it, but I like where it is now.












    Another item needing address was who will drive this beast? After some searching, a suitable candidate was secured for the job. Welcome Dr. Bernadette Maryann Rostenkowski-Wolowitz to the Cruiser. She looks happy to be a part of the team. Let's call her Bernie, for short.



    Last edited by btoungette; 01-08-2018 at 10:32 AM.
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  12. #12
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    It has been a few weeks (maybe) since I made a change in wheels & tires, but I failed to share the change with you.




    I had the RC4WD Atturo Trail Blade M/T 1.9" Scale Tires in my possession for quite a while, and even had them on this rig before (I think). I ended up selling the white steel wheels that were last on this rig and decided to change tires, too.

    I had purchased the TSS Rock Monster beadlocks a while ago because I wanted to mimic one of the ICON FJ40 builds, and they were the closest thing I found to a wheel option ICON offered. So, I decided to use the wheels (I added the scale hardware and Vanquish Products XD centers) with the Atturo tires stuffed with Crawler Innovations Lil' Nova Foams.
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  13. #13
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    Great thread! I do enjoy following your many truck adventures. I've been thinking about a cruiser for quite a while but haven't pulled the trigger on one.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 25aniv View Post
    Great thread! I do enjoy following your many truck adventures. I've been thinking about a cruiser for quite a while but haven't pulled the trigger on one.
    Thank you!

    The Cruiser is a great scale truck. It is a big boy, don't be fooled.

    I enjoy both of mine.
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by btoungette View Post
    Thank you!

    The Cruiser is a great scale truck. It is a big boy, don't be fooled.

    I enjoy both of mine.
    Good to know! That won't bother me at all. There are no such thing as comps around here and trailing is pretty much done by one's self so that can get a little boring but I enjoy the building and tinkering more anyway

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 25aniv View Post
    Good to know! That won't bother me at all. There are no such thing as comps around here and trailing is pretty much done by one's self so that can get a little boring but I enjoy the building and tinkering more anyway
    I crawled alone for over two years before joining a local club. I started out with a LOSI Micro Crawler for Christmas 2009, the next Christmas I got an SCX-10 Honcho kit. I built that and crawled on rocks in a ditch for most of 2011 and part of 2012 before joining a local club. I got interested in comps a few years later.

    I understand the alone game. It was fun nonetheless.
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  17. #17
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    I addressed the short driveshafts by ordering some of the RC4WD Ultra Punisher Shafts (93.7mm - 115mm / 3.69" - 4.53") 5mm Hole. These are a plastic bodied driveshaft with metal couplings. I was fortunate enough to get my hands on a set of pre-production units to test last year, and I liked what I saw. I currently run those driveshafts on agent ORANGE, and I think these production units will do great on this truck.




    Here is a comparison to the metal ones I took off. Both are near full extension.




    Here they are installed. The front does touch the transmission at full stuff, but it shouldn't interfere with performance.




    Another item I needed to check off the list was side windows. I completed this small project on agent ORANGE. Below are some photos where I made those side windows.










    They are hard to see, but they are in.




    I also secured Bernie in the interior with some black E-6000. I didn't take a photo of that because it was just gluing her in the seat.
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  18. #18
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    The work continues as I try to knock stuff off the list.

    One thing that is needed on most G2 chassis electronic set-ups is a pair of extended motor wires. I warmed up the soldering gun on the workbench in my sub-freezing garage last evening as I prepared to add some female bullet connectors to a pair of motor wires I had removed from another motor a while back. Turns out, they were the length I needed to place the ESC in the stock location, which is a requirement in the C2Spec class this truck will compete in.




    Now, here is the one thing I have been waiting to show you that I think total changes the attitude of this truck -- a TF2 Marlin Crawler front bumper.

    For those familiar with the G2 chassis and those running the Cruiser body set, you know the front bumper can be a drag (pun). It protrudes way out front greeting everything in it's path. While I have continued to use it with some success on agent ORANGE, this truck would benefit from some addition approach angle because of the smaller tires. So, I brainstormed a minute or two and thought, "What about a TF2 bumper?" I tried a stock TF2 bumper that I had lying around for proof of concept, and it looked great, and it provided the approach angle I was after. It also still had a place for a winch. So, I had my good friends at RC4WD ship me a RC4WD Marlin Crawler Front Winch Bumper w/Stinger for Trail Finder 2. As you may know, the TF2 chassis bumper mounts work on the front of the G2 chassis. For now, I used a #1 plastic mount from a TF2 kit. I will replace the plastic one with an RC4WD #1 Aluminum Bumper Mount For Trail Finder 2 once they are back in stock.




    With the stock placement of the servo on the G2 chassis, the bumper would have to be modified to get it fully in the bumper mount without touching the servo mount. Out came the dremel and a cut-off disk.




    I only cut the one bumper thing that would interfere with the servo mount. I took off two of the four available holes, and got into the third hole. It worked as expected once modified.






    Another modification I had to do (that I didn't show) was cutting off the ends of the bumper to clear the front fenders. I simply installed the bumper, marked at the fender, and back to the dremel and the cut-off disk. I may paint the newly exposed metal, but a sharpie worked for now.










    I added an RC4WD 1/10 Warn 9.5cti Winch and an RC4WD 1/10 Warn Warn Hawse Fairlead (Black). I think it looks great, and gives the truck a little attitude. It looks more like the ICON version.
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


  19. #19
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    Oh man, that TF2 bumper does look awesome on there! Love it!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 25aniv View Post
    Oh man, that TF2 bumper does look awesome on there! Love it!
    Thanks!
    <>< | agent ORANGE | TenderFoot | FRANKENGREEN | RAFFLE-1
    Tennessee Scale Crawlers


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