Battery Access

[marjon]

Hi

Got my Gelande 2 D90 a couple of months ago as my first venture in crawler trucks.

I there an easier way to access the battery for changing without having to remove the 4 screws that hold the body on and remove the whole body.
Or are there maybe clips available to hold the body on to make it quicker to switch the battery out.

Also can anybody recommend what items/screws/nuts I would need to but to attached the spare wheel to the spike on back door of the body or is it better to get one of the spare wheel kits that mount to the rear bumper.

Thanks

Martyn

[Gasguzzler]

Hi there marjon,congrats on getting into rock crawlers,thier super fun!for your battery issue,I don't have the g2,but I have the tf2 and I wondered the same thing.if the d90 has body clips on the rear,you can remove two of the body screws permanently and patch the holes with tamiya putty to get at the battery a little easier! If not,you can try making a magnet body mount system with some rare earth magnets, you can patch the holes up with tamiya putty and paint match it to your body's color!

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for the wheel on the back door,try a m3 screw(check out rc4wd's scale bolts,you get 20 for 5$ and they look awesome!)and a washer.you could also check for a bumper with a tire carrier ,but I would try the screw 1st.you can also get cc hand's 1/10 tire holder(d90/d110,part#vvv-c0249)it mounts with 4 screws,looks great and only costs 15$

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i added some photos of the cc hand tire/wheel mount for you,hope this helps!if ever you have other questions,feel free to ask me!

[marjon]

Thanks for the information Gazguzzler
Its nice to know Im not the only one that feels that having to take the body off to change the battery seems a bit strange.
As for the spare tire I had seen the tire mount you mentioned but just didn't like the idea/trust myself of putting holes in the body to fit it.

Will look into the M3 screw and give that a go.

[Gasguzzler]

No problem,i'm happy to help!btw,what else mods you got planned?I'm thinking of getting my self a d90 and would be interested in seeing what your upgrades!

[Raman]

Did any one come up with a solution to this? over the weekend, we were up in the mountains of Utah and changing the battery by removing the 4 screws in cold weather with cold hands is not fun.

Prior to trip I purchased magnetic mounts from teamraffee only to find the D90 body they use is not from RC4WD. The battery plate would need to be removed as it interferes with the mount plates.

on another forum, someone suggested using a grub / set screw and then popping body over it. Problem with that was the scre holes are 2.6 mm. not easy to find set screws in 2.6

[Reden]

Rethread the 4 body screws to M3 or M4.
Add same size threaded rod out of mild steel. Drill on outside of body to take body clips.
This will work but will also catch rocks or branches with the stubs sticking out.. M3 cap screws works best for me without using clips.

[R0bD]

Unfortunately I think it’s something we have to deal with to retain the scale appearance. I actually painted the rocker panel satin black to match my fender flares and hide the screws. I run a 3s 4500mah LiPo and get 3+ hours of crawling out of that pack so it’s really not an issue for me since I rarely have to change my battery on the trail.

[scaled]

The new D90 Heritage and autograph editions use clips the same as the Cruiser. You can likely make the same setup work.

[MaxPower]

Another option is to put an M3 grub screw in the body mount post w/ just enough protrusion to catch the body mount holes when u put the body on. I'll post up a pict when I get home today.

[MaxPower]

Here ya go. Grub it up!