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  • #31
    [COLOR=#ff66cc][SIZE=3]Round #3 is in the books, and I had an average day. I got some good scratches on the body and a third place finish.

    Got to try the Duratrac tires for the first time. Jury is still out on those simply due to the little run-time I have on them. I love the way they look on the rig.

    Couple of issues, but no surprises really. Steering, or lack thereof. Besides the usual lack of throw, the rig seemed to turn less to the left than the right. I'm not sure what that was about. And the brace in the front below the bumper got hung-up quite a bit. In fact, the brace got a little bent due to meeting with an obstacle along the way. The winch grabbed a rock or two, also.




    Couple of things I'm not satisfied with on this rig; the steering throw and the front suspension travel. Both have been discussed over and over. I have a few things I want to try in regards to the suspension fix, including entertaining the idea of going three link in the front.

    I don't want a lot of flex. I like the front to work less than the back, but I want more up-travel (compression) than I'm getting now. I fiddled with the shocks a bit yesterday, but I made it worse. I have no real plan other than tinker here and there to see if anything helps.

    Here's a photo for keepsakes...

    Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017, 01:54 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
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    • #32
      I'm going to share some before photos and some after photos with the steering turned to full lock both ways. The before photos are with the stock TF2 Yota axle and stock dog-bones. The after photos are with a G2 Yota II axles and XVDs.

      BEFORE:










      AFTER:










      Here are a couple zoomed out with the Yota II set-up:






      Any more steering and it would be pointless with the current set-up of leaf springs and the wheel offset I am running.

      Thoughts?
      Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017, 01:55 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
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      • #33
        So, one of the things that made the 45 degree steering of the Yota II axles is the XVD Axle for Ultimate Scale Yota II G2 Axle.




        I took the Yota II front axle from another rig and swapped it in this rig. Before I did that, I opened up the diff to add some grease. I used RC4WD Red Lubrication for Transmission & Axles.








        I added the XVDs and noticed some slop in the in-and-out of the axle shaft. I added a small o-ring behind the pin to keep things from moving so much.






        I think the axle swap from the Yota to the Yota II will be beneficial. I still have some tweaks I'd like to do. The negative caster is a little much due to the blocks under the springs. That causes a little awkwardness in turning. I'll revisit that situation later. Overall, I am satisfied with the change, so far.






        I also changed foams in the tires. More on that in a separate thread: view it here.

        I checked everything over and it looks like it's ready for round #5.
        Last edited by btoungette; 07-21-2017, 01:57 PM. Reason: photobucket ransom
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        • #34
          Got some time to tinker last evening. I have long thought I needed more flex in the front. I have the spring hangers swapped around with Tamiya Bruiser leaf spring stays and G2 shock hoops and the 90mm shocks, but without RC4WD Teraflex Revolver Shackles or RC4WD Teraflex Revolver Z-Boxes the flex is limited by both the shock and the spring hangers.

          All I did was put the 70mm shocks back on, in the bottom hole on the G2 hoop, and used Traxxas rod ends like I had on the 90mm ones. That change allowed more compression while maintaining the same amount of droop/extension. It's not a big change, but it allowed for more flex which should help with stiff suspension and roll-overs. I'm not ready for the mega-flex of the Revolver Shackles & Z-Boxes... baby steps.

          One of those addition by subtraction circumstances.

          No photos.
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          • #35
            We have carnage!






            Looks like the body took a hard hit behind the left front tire and cracked. I'm sure it was one of those many roll-overs on course two. I only managed a 6 out of 7 place finish (-6 pts), thanks in part to a DNF on course 2.

            I knew about the bed-hook being broken off, and I am surprised those have lasted this long. I'll use some Bondene to fix the cracks (and maybe reinforce the area). Not much can be done about the broken bed-hook.

            I didn't get to do a thorough once-over, just a quick look-see to check for obvious things. I give it a good once-over later.

            I thought the rig performed okay. The tires weren't always helpful. I think it's the closed cell foams that are keeping the tires from flexing and gripping rocks. I plan to review the foam options and probably make a change.

            The Yota II steering axle has done great, and has helped in a few situations. I may go ahead and change the rear axle to a Yota II, just so they match. I have it available; so, why not?
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            • #36
              You have a good looking truck. Ouch the body took a beating, lol. To bad after all the work that goes into it. Guess it's part of the rc game. Time for some body work or a new body for you?

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              • #37
                Originally posted by Levi View Post
                You have a good looking truck. Ouch the body took a beating, lol. To bad after all the work that goes into it. Guess it's part of the rc game. Time for some body work or a new body for you?
                Thanks. Beating these rigs is part of the comp scene. If I was just trailing it, I would have caught it and stopped it from rolling. It tumbled a few times though.

                I'll try repairing the body first, then if needed I can do up a new cap in the off-season.
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                • #38
                  I worked some on repairing the cracked body. It was not a clean break. It looked like it had cracked and then the plastic was stressed then broke further. The inside of the crack was partially white like the plastic was stressed (kinda like a plastic spoon when you bend it until it breaks).






                  I tried to use Bondene and my hands to repair the joint, but it wouldn't stay together. It would shift when I let go of it. Usually, the Bondene bonds the pieces in about 30-60 seconds, but that was not the case here. I had to use some bracing to get the crack to close and line-up properly. It dried over night and continues drying today. I may hit it again with another round of Bondene before removing the braces. That spot will probably need some reinforcement.








                  I looked everything else over and checked the screws & nuts; everything was good. I added a few washers on the front inner fenders to help secure them from where the holes have ripped. Other than finishing the body repair and maybe adjusting foams, it's good to go.
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                  • #39
                    Hey it's almost as good as new right, lol. That's ok get the most out of the body anyway. I'm jeolous seeing pictures of even the damaged body, makes me wish my tf2 was complete and ready to run. Guess I'll have to beat up on my new trx-4 when it shows up.

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                    • #40
                      I added some reinforcement to the crack. I used some parts-tree material & Bondene to add a little material to reinforce the area after removing some paint with sandpaper. It's been drying over the weekend.



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                      • #41
                        Round #7 was not as bad as recent outings - managed a 2nd place finish, which is always good, but I am now mathematically eliminated from a chance at winning the 2017 Championship. That sucks. I need to step up my game for next year if I want to have a better chance at winning the championship in 2018.

                        I didn't see any issues that really need addressed. The body repair held. I can tell the tires and foams are breaking-in. Heck, I've ran this rig less than three hours total all year, current tires and foams less than that. That's not much time to get things properly broken-in. I'll stick with the current set-up for the last round of 2017. The only change I currently foresee during the off-season is (maybe) wheels, simply due to the uneasiness of removing tires and foams. I'd like wheels that are easier to remove the tire from in order to do some foam tuning or tire changes, if needed, without removing all those scale screws each time. Other things may come up, but I like the way this rig performs currently.

                        I still need to do a complete once-over to see if anything needs work before Round #8. My initial quick look-see didn't reveal any carnage.

                        Here are a few photos from Round #7:





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                        • #42
                          Great to see your doing comps. Guess maybe more practice time, practice never hurt right? Better luck next year hopefully. Sounds like you still did pretty good. I'm dying to get my truck up by summer 2018.

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                          • #43
                            Thanks.

                            I agree, practice is crucial to keeping sharp. I keep telling the guy leading our series that he crawls all the time, and it shows in the comps. Trigger time is very important, especially on a new rig.
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                            • #44
                              So, I finished the 2017 Series tied for 3rd. Not bad, but should have done better.

                              I have things I need to work on in both my driving and this rig. Plans are to campaign this rig again for 2018; so, I need to address a few issues before then.

                              Wheels & tires & foams... they are already off this rig and onto another. I really like the combo of the TSS wheels with the RC4WD Duratrac tires and the CI foams, but I feel I incurred points due to my tire/foam choice. To keep the great looks, I put them on another rig. I have new wheels for this rig, and a couple of choices for tires. Once I decide on the tires, then foam tuning will begin. More on that in later posts, in later weeks.

                              Another issue was the little bumper between the front leaf spring mounts. That needs to go; it has incurred a few penalty points on its own. It serves a purpose, but it will need to go which will cause a few other things to be changed to compensate. The winch placement will need to be reviewed. Some pondering on a 3-link set-up will take place. And, some trimming of bits to make larger tires fit will be reviewed (all while keeping with-in the SORRCA C1 rules, of course).

                              So, I have several things to think about and a few things to do before 2018 rolls around. It was a fun 2017 series, and I learned a few tings along the way. That's the point, right? To get better, and/or improve?

                              Here is a memory from Round #8:




                              Oh, yeah. I need to paint the driver. He's looking a little pale. lmao
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                              • #45
                                Well don't kick yourself down, sounds like you did really good placing 3rd. We all learn from our mistakes and turn around to make improvements. Now you have time to improve on your rig for next year.

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