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H2Micr0's HJ47 Crew Cab

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  • H2Micr0's HJ47 Crew Cab

    I built this truck as part of the Scale Builders Guild Styrene Body Build Off.

    This build shows what can be done with the RC4WD FJ40 Hard Body with a bit of imagination.

    I hope you enjoy.

    ************************************************** *************************

    OK, after a bit of research I have decided on this.











    HJ47 Crew Cab, built by a motor body and coachwork company Arcana in Western Australia for the mining companies.


    Donor bodies are ordered and on their way.


    Cheers
    H2Micr0
    Last edited by H2Micr0; 11-23-2017, 09:00 PM.
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  • #2
    With notification today that the FJ40 Hardbody has departed RC4WD, I thought it was time prep the intended chassis for the HJ47.


    Sadly, this means saying farewell to a faithful friend.





    The first scale class 1 rig I built. Famous across the internet and admired by many, it is time for a well deserved retirement of the body. Being lexan and somewhat of a jigsaw puzzle it has several tears in the body that I have attempted to patch, however it was only getting worse with each outing.


    So it will sit in the Man Cave where I can cast my eye fondly over it and reminisce over good times and how this body got me invited to Scale Builders Guild.





    This of course, leaves me with the Chassis.











    For those who have not read the Troopy Build Thread this is a quick run down on it.


    Chassis is an SCX10, with an SCX10 trans in a custom front motor mount, Hammer Transfer case, Yota 1 Diffs, and custom leaf spring brackets.


    The rear suspension is easily unbolted and slid back to extend the wheel base if needed.





    Some pics of the suspension.


    Front











    Rear











    As you can see this is well loved and used rig.


    Electronics are HH 35t motor, AE2 ESC, CC BEC, lights and a winch.


    Once the body arrives I will be able to assess what may need to be changed.


    Cheers
    H2Micr0
    Last edited by H2Micr0; 11-23-2017, 09:01 PM.
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    • #3
      The FJ40 Bodies arrived from RC4WD.

      Two of them are mine and one went to my good buddy Shannwah.
      I wish you luck with your build - it's going to be awesome [/QUOTE]


      OH WOW!!!!!


      It worked!!!!!








      Cheers
      H2Micr0
      Last edited by H2Micr0; 11-23-2017, 09:01 PM.
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      • #4
        I quickly unpacked the body, and took a bunch of photos to share with my local mates, as these bodies are relatively uncommon here in Australia.


        But I won't show those as you should have all seen that a few times.


        But here is the main body piece out of the box.





        I then just had to sit it on the chassis to see how things were initially sizing up.











        As you can see the old Troopy wheel base needs a stretch.


        I then put the interior in to see if the spur in it's current location was going to cause an issue.





        And an issue I do have. More on that later.


        I unbolted the rear diff and springs and pushed them back to the approx location they would need to be just to get an idea of size.





        OK, not bad, is going to be nice and long, YES!!!!


        I then stripped the chassis of all it's electronics and other metal work I had added over the years.





        Over 3 years of crud build up LOL I will be stripping, cleaning, inspecting and rebuilding the running gear.





        Next step is to look at moving the transmission to create some space for the interior.


        Cheers
        H2Micr0
        Last edited by H2Micr0; 11-23-2017, 09:02 PM.
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        • #5
          Soo, moving the transmission forward.


          I found I could slide the stock SCX10 front crossmember forward inside the chassis with the Level 3 Servo Plate mount still attached creating some room between it and the back of the transmission. They were snug up against each other as you can see in a pic above.





          This wasn't quite enough, so I trimmed off the front part of the servo plate and in the end was able to move the transmission forward by around 25mm.





          This created plenty of clearance from the firewall and still have room above the motor.








          I installed a longer driveshaft between the trans and t/case.





          Test fitting the body with the floor installed certainly looks promising.








          Cheers
          H2Micr0
          Last edited by H2Micr0; 11-23-2017, 09:03 PM.
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          • #6
            Before we begin, I would like to talk about tyre sizes.


            I have elected to use a tyre size of 108mm. Now this is larger than the Class 1 max size of 106mm, but this body is much larger. The only tyre that looks somewhat normal and works for a stock/original type build, is the RC4WD MTZ.


            But I want a slightly modified look and to do that need something a bit bigger. I have put the ripsaws on as they are 108mm and are helping me envisage the final product. I am looking at other tyre options at 108 - 110mm.


            ************************************************** *********


            Now the body is sitting too high for my liking, and adjusting the leaf springs was going to cause all kinds of pain.


            Soo I opted for a bit of Chopping action to address the situation.


            Original front.





            Chopped front.





            Original rear.





            Chopped rear.





            I decided that the front won't be noticeable behind the bar work and winch, and the rear will have a tray hiding it.




            This sat it down nicely





            But something underneath was now fouling and not letting the body sit centrally.


            Uh Huh!!!!








            Fixed!!





            Better.





            But I think it still needs to be lower.


            So I marked and then cut some more.








            Ohhhh, I like that. Much more in keeping with a daily driver.





            However, once again there was something in the way underneath. I didn't get a pic, but the driveshaft between the Trans and the TCase was now rubbing on the dash mounting hole (I think, not having assembled that bit yet).


            I new I would need that part of the body, so instead elected to lower the transmission. This actually also assists with COG, and only required a few holes to be drilled.


            The trans now sits around 10mm lower overall.








            And just clears underneath.





            This pic demonstrates how well the SCX10 Chassis fits the body.





            I did have to trim the rail slightly so the spur had clearance.





            It all just seems to be living together in harmony. Well for now anyway.





            And a final pic of where I am now up to.





            I also spent some time getting the front wheels to sit a bit forward in the front wheel arches, to match the real ones. I am quite happy with the current stance for now.


            Now I am working out just how to fill in the rear wheel arches and side windows.


            None of the styrene I have is the same thickness which complicates the issue.


            But I have found that letting these minor problems turn over in my mind for a bit usually allows me to arrive at a solution.


            Cheers
            H2Micr0
            Last edited by H2Micr0; 11-23-2017, 09:03 PM.
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            • #7
              I took Pardonmynoob's suggestion and found I could use two thinner layers of styrene sheet to get a suitable thickness to use as a filler for the wheel arches.










              Of course, you can't just cut those to shape, and glue them in and expect any semblance of structural integrity, so I put in a backing piece.


              This would have been really simple except for this change in thickness on the forward inner part of the wheel arches.





              I used some 1.5mm black styrene and shaped it to just run along the inside edge, but allowed for plenty of surface area for a good strong bond on above and behind the arch.








              Then I used the pencil line as a guide and shaped the fill piece to suit.


              Not to shabby I reckon.








              This was glued in and then the bottom edge trimmed to be equal with the bottom of the body.








              Now it was time to cut the new rear wheel arch. Measured and marked out ready for the dremel.





              And DONE!!!








              I only guestimated around the back. It needs to be wider.





              Then it is a repeat of those steps for the other side.








              However, I had done a bit of research (gazing at images on my PC) and decided the angle of the cut was a bit steep, so adjusted accordingly.


              With both sides cut I was able to determine what the wheelbase should be and bolted in the rear axle and suspension. Ride height can't be determined until every thing is complete and it is carrying the final weight on the springs.











              I then widened the rear to allow for the tyre to articulate.





              But, the interior is now in the way.








              This area really should have been wider, as most tyres would rub on this at total compression.


              But the floor in this will be cut and shut a few times so I will take care of this at the same time.


              Cheers
              H2Micr0
              Last edited by H2Micr0; 11-23-2017, 09:05 PM.
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              • #8
                I mentioned earlier that I was having an issue with the larger tyres rubbing on the leaf springs.








                So I did something about this last over the weekend.


                I made up some small plates from sheet metal that move the spring inward.








                The other side needed some love and attention from my dremel.








                Then I had to flip the shackles around. Some minor filing of the mount holes achieved this.








                The front hangers were pretty much floating so were even easier. No pics of that sorry.


                But here is the finished mod.








                Plenty of clearance all round. Love it when a plan works out this well.


                Then I had a play around with some cardboard, mocking up a tray. I needed to get an idea of what size would look right.











                I think I have it pretty close.


                Then did some wheel and tyre swapping. I think I like this look with the two different tyres.











                Yes, I know, where is the styrene work? Soon, soon.


                Cheers
                H2Micr0
                Last edited by H2Micr0; 11-23-2017, 09:05 PM.
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                • #9
                  Finally did some more work on the body.


                  I started by removing the side window raised 'window rubber'. I used my dremel with a flexi shaft and a fine sandpaper drum.








                  A bit of filing and sanding and this should be good. I have to fill the hole then cut out where the door window will be. This will take a bit more brain power before I tackle that job. The door won't be functional, but will still need to look natural.


                  Then I moved on to the interior. The stock interior has wheel tubs down both sides, which just are not there in the Crew Cab.


                  And raised sections inside that to allow for the shock hoops on the Gelande 2 Chassis. Well I don't need that either.


                  So I started by removing the shock hoop covers.





                  Before I went any further I cut a support piece of styrene and glued it in place as a structural support.





                  Then the dremel got a good work out.





                  Boy oh boy, I hope I have this worked out right!!!!


                  Hmmmmm, yes, I think this will work.





                  OK, that is better.











                  The raised section at the back is the seat base mount, and allows for clearance of the tyre underneath.





                  Until next time.


                  Cheers
                  H2Micr0
                  Last edited by H2Micr0; 11-23-2017, 09:06 PM.
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                  • #10
                    Progress has been made!!!!


                    I picked up a SCX10 Chassis on the weekend.





                    And proceeded to chop it up too.





                    I really need to replace these older extensions I make for the original Troopy. You couldn't see them under the old body, but with a tray they will be seen.





                    Sooo, I needed to join the two parts together.


                    I grabbed some 12mm X 3mm alloy bar from my pile of bits.





                    Mark up the piece





                    And using a 100mm angle grinder with a 1mm cutting blade make the cut.





                    Now I have two thinner bits of alloy.





                    After a bit of file work it fits neatly inside the C Channel.





                    After much filing and drilling we have a nice solid chassis extension.





                    Yes, looks MUCH better.





                    This will allow me to move forward with the tray.


                    But first I started messing around with the rear door. I used some cardboard and used a rough sketch for the mockup.





                    The window was a bit small, so it got bigger.





                    There is a lack of consistency regarding the door window, door handle and molds or lack of in some cases, so I am taking a bit of creative license with the door design.


                    Cheers
                    H2Micr0
                    Last edited by H2Micr0; 11-23-2017, 09:07 PM.
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                    • #11
                      Now I am ready to start on the rear tray.


                      I started with a styrene puzzle.














                      This will work. The brackets will be trimmed further and painted.


                      Then I made one of the tray sides.








                      The tray floor was cut from a sheet of 2mm Styrene but it looked a bit on the 'flat' side. Most of the original trays appear to have a metal I beam as a structural support so I set about duplicating that look.











                      This gives some more visual depth to the floor.


                      Cheers
                      H2Micr0
                      Last edited by H2Micr0; 11-23-2017, 09:07 PM.
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                      • #12
                        I got to work yesterday and built the other side and rear tailgate for the tray.


                        I found some suitable brass hinges at the local hardware store. These I glued to the tray floor and am using M2 scale bolts to attach the panels.




















                        I am looking at a couple of ideas on latching solutions, and on what I want to do for the headboard.


                        And while not deliberately planned this way, this area is just perfect for the battery.








                        Plenty of other detail items to come yet.


                        Cheers
                        H2Micr0
                        Last edited by H2Micr0; 11-23-2017, 09:08 PM.
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                        • #13
                          I spent some free time while driving for a couple of hours over the weekend tossing around ideas in my head (man does it echo in there) regarding how to latch the sides and tailgate.


                          With some helpful suggestions from my local scale gurus I developed a simple but functional solution, using paper clips.


                          This was the initial idea.





                          So then it was time to make the idea work.


                          Starting with a side panel I drilled very small hole and used the smallest styrene tube I had to create a reinforced sleeve.











                          I then repeated that in the tailgate and bent up a paper clip.








                          OK cool. Now to stop the latch from bouncing out while on the trail. A pen spring was cut in half, slid over the longer part of the latch and then the end bent to hold the spring.





                          And then the whole thing was repeated on the other side.





                          It's a bit crude, but works great, and allows for the tailgate and sides to be up or down. Once I build the headboard, the sides will be latched to it in a similar fashion.


                          I thought this looked weird and wonderful at the same time LOL





                          Cheers
                          H2Micr0
                          Last edited by H2Micr0; 11-23-2017, 09:09 PM.
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                          • #14
                            Even though this is not near it's final weight, the tyres were looking a little flat.








                            I prefer a much stiffer foam setup for my scale rigs so stuffed some much larger foams in these tyres.














                            Much better.


                            Time to finish the tray.


                            I grabbed some angle alloy and cut to length.








                            Marked and drilled a bunch of holes.





                            The alloy piece will be the support and attachment point for the head board and roll bar. I decided to use more bolts than needed to reduce stress on the bolt locations in case of a roll over.


                            Headboard attached.





                            I am using some 8mm OD tube as the roll bar. Bent it up to suit.





                            I cut some mounting tabs from some sheet metal and brazed them on.





                            Getting there.








                            I counter sunk all the holes to reduce the bolts from sticking out too far.





                            Added some protective bars to the roll bar.





                            I made up two more latches to hold the side panels to the headboard.








                            Test fit is better than I hoped.











                            Cheers
                            H2Micr0
                            Last edited by H2Micr0; 11-23-2017, 09:10 PM.
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                            • #15
                              I found a great place for the batteries quite by accident.








                              I built two styrene battery retaining walls. This way I can run two 1800mah 3s batts in Parallel if I want.








                              This will keep them up nice and high, safe and secure, and be easy enough to access without removing the body.





                              Then it was on to the Brushbars and Sliders.


                              When Tom Allen of RC4WD was wheeling his FJ40 Gelande at the Australian Nationals, his truck had one step missing and I actually saw the other one fall off from being worn away from the rocks. So a functional set of sliders was high on my want list.


                              Setting up for brazing is an art in itself I reckon.

















                              That should protect the body nicely.


                              Now to attach them to the chassis.








                              Test fit looks good. Need to braze the front to the bull bar.











                              Both sliders bolted to the chassis, getting it ready to braze to the bull bar.





                              And done. Bit of clean up work and paint still needed.














                              Quite happy with how these came out. Looks good, and very functional.


                              Cheers
                              H2Micr0
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                              Last edited by H2Micr0; 11-23-2017, 09:10 PM.
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