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  • Frankengreen



    Let's get another one started...

    Where in the heck did "FRANKENGREEN" come from? You probably get the green reference, but franken?

    This rig is built from a gathering of parts from various places much like Victor Frankenstein did when he tried to replicate the giant man he chased in the wilderness. Read the story, if you haven't, and you will know it didn't go as he planned. I thought, as I planned this build, that it would be like Frankenstein, in some ways, like using parts I had lying around, and purchasing others. However, I hope this rig does work out as I expect.

    Then I played with the pronunciation, changing the word to Frankensteen, then to Franks N Beans (remember Warren in There's Something About Mary).

    From there, I arrived at FRANKENGREEN. I liked it; so, it stuck. It's quirky, but fun.

    __________________________________________________ ________________________________________

    Now that is out of the way, let's get on to the build.

    I pondered several options for my Class 2 rig for 2018. Do I chase points to the max or focus on driving better, or both? The best answer is both, max points and drive better. The question is can you still finish on the podium and not have max scale points? Can a rig with max scale points perform at a high level. Of course they can. I've seen it several times. But, I didn't want to invest a lot of time or money into either max points or better equipment. So, I compromised.

    Lexan bodies have their advantages, and a lot of scale points is not what they are known for, but I ultimately chose Lexan over a hardbody because it's just easier. I had planned on doing a custom Jeep JK hardbody, but I didn't want to spend the time to do it right; so, I dug in the spare parts bin and got a green Deadbolt body out. I needed to paint the underside to prevent a glow from the sun because the paint is thin on these bodies. First a coat of white, then backed with black.

    I already had the chassis (from plan B) and had several extra links and rod ends in the spare parts bin, along with some RC4WD scale shocks (from agent ORANGE). With larger tires (from agent ORANGE, along with the wheels) the servo needed a little more torque; so, I dug in the spare electronics box and found a new Hitec HS-7954SH. One of the things I wanted to upgrade was the axles because the stock SCX10 axles didn't allow enough steering with the plastic bits and dog-bones.

    Luckily, RC4WD ran a great sale during the holidays on the D44 Metal axles and I grabbed a set of the RC4WD D44 Narrow Front Axle (SCX10 Width) and the RC4WD D44 Narrow Rear Axle (SCX10 Width). Once they were delivered at HQ, I checked all the screws, added some grub screws in the open holes, and added some grease to the gears. I used some RC4WD Red Lubrication for Transmission & Axles.

    After that, I got them installed on the chassis.

    I think they have better steering than stock...

    Another thing that I had on the list is better weight distribution. So, I managed to snag a Toyzuki forward motor mount in aluminum from a friend in our local club.

    Some of you may remember a build I did a few years back, shape-shifter, and that I added a spare tire to the rear cage. I decided to do the same here to get those extra scale points. I'll go into how to do that in another post.

    Just so happened that I had used the head/helmet off this body for a driver in the plan B red body; so, I had to paint another for this rig.

    That gets you caught up to my progress. I am still waiting on parts -- bumpers, sliders, steering links, scale accessories. I have the CMS kit at the HQ, but need to install it (it requires some drilling). I also need to get the electronics back in place. The list is long, and the time is short. First comp is January 27th.

    Stay tuned...
    Last edited by btoungette; 11-07-2018, 09:40 AM.

  • #2
    The name fits

    Be interesting to see how this one rock and rolls. Good to see Plan B back in the game too!


    • #3
      I'm getting closer to have a running rig, but I'm still waiting on some parts - sliders & front bumper. I had them custom made, and they should be delivered today. I need the sliders to place electronics.

      I got the driveshafts worked out. Keeping with the Frankenstein theme, I will have an Axial WB8 (hybrid, like the newer HD ones) for the rear driveshaft; an MIP for the front, and an RC4WD Scale Steel Punisher Shaft (77mm - 100mm / 3.03" - 3.94") for the shaft from forward motor mount to the transmission/transfer case. Saturday, I completed the modification to the upper transmission shaft that allows the driveshaft to be installed properly. It is all in and awaiting testing. No photos of that; someone has a video online if you want to know the steps.

      I got the chassis mounted servo mount installed. I chose the CMS Pro for the SCX-10.2 from LURC. I chose that one because it has great adjustability for both the servo location, and the panhard mount. Knowing the SCX-10 and SCX-10.2 frames were almost identical, I took advantage of a late December sale. There are several CMS kits on the market, but I needed the panhard mount in a certain location for this set-up, and this kit was the only one that I thought would work.

      The word "Pro" in the kit name implies there is some drilling required. I figured out which holes I was using, then drilled out the frame for the screws.

      The servo will go on when I place the other electronics.

      I think that gets us most of the major modifications checked off the list. There are some scale details to add, thread locking a few screws, decals to add, and placement/programming of the electronics left to complete. Five evenings left before the start of the 2018 comp season...


      • #4
        The work continues.

        I has happy to see my front bumper and sliders in the mail box upon arriving home last evening. They were in an inconspicuous white mailing envelope, but I knew what it held.

        I ordered the custom bumper and custom sliders from ScalerFab because they were able to do what I wanted, and they sponsored our local club's 2017 series.

        I wanted a slightly narrower front bumper than what they normally stocked; so, I gave the measurements and now I have what I wanted to compliment the Deadbolt body. I mounted an RC4WD 1/10 Mini Warn 9.5cti Winch to the bumper for those times when a little extra motivation is needed.

        Due to the narrow width I requested, the brace got in the way of the winch fitting in place. I introduced the bumper to Mr. Dremel, and now the winch fits. I added a extra plate I had left over form the RC4WD 1/10 Warn 9.5cti Winch CNC Mounting Plates set I had purchased a while back. That gave a little extra height to help clear that brace.

        I also wanted a custom sliders so they would fit up behind the body. They fit great.

        A feature built into the sliders are link risers. I utilized that feature for the rear upper links, but kept the front upper 3-link in the stock location.

        For the rear bumper, I looked for something minimal and metal (for those extra points). I chose the RC4WD Tow Bar Mount for Axial SCX10. It's not a typical bumper, or a typical use of this product, but it works great for this rig. I added some HR 1/10 Scale Ez Mount Tow Shackles. They are a 3mm screw; so, they worked great with the holes in the bumper. I may add some d-rings later.

        One thing I needed was a tie-rod, and I couldn't find the ones designed for the D44 axle in stock; so, I improvised. I found some 8-32 all-thread on my workbench in the garage, and figured it would work until I can get the D44 link kit. I added some RC4WD M3/M4 Plastic Short Rod Ends after cutting the all-thread to length and bending it to clear the diff cover.

        I had a couple scale accessories I needed to secure on the rig in order to max those points. I added a scale license plate to the rear.

        And, added an RC4WD MAXTRAX Vehicle Extraction and Recovery Board 1/10 (Black) to the roof rack and secured it with a homemade bungee.

        Next on the list is electronics placement. Then, I have a few small items like securing some screws with thread-lock, inner fenders, and reinforcing the cage where it screws to the body.


        • #5

          Yep, it's a running, steering, crawling machine. The electronics are in, even though they may not look pretty.

          I used the ESC, BEC, & RX from plan B. I installed a new Team Br00d Rumble 25 turn brushed motor. I needed a stronger servo than I used in plan B due to the larger tires; so, I dug in my spare electronics box and found a new servo...

          While the 7954 is water resistant, I wanted a little extra to keep water from getting past the horn gear. I used a small o-ring and some dielectric grease to help prevent water from getting in around the main gear.

          Once I got it in place, I noticed the servo horn was restricted from full throw by the frame rail. I took the dremel and removed the area marked on the chassis rail.

          All the above was finished the evening before last. Last night I got some inner fenders in place, put small o-rings and thread locker on the shock rod ends, and added some E-6000 to the underside of the body where the cage attaches to strengthen it a bit. I think that is it. Like, the list is finished, it. Only thing I want to do is a once-over to check everything one more time. I need to see where I will secure the winch controller, but that shouldn't take too long. I'm sure there will be things that come up that I will adjust, and I would like to clean up the wiring some.

          For now... It's done.


          • #6

            WHAT WAS THAT? That was Event #1, and I performed like a freshly awakened monster.

            What can I blame my last place performance on this time? Nothing but me, myself, and I. I did not prepare well at all. Not much more to say.

            I need to tune a few things on the rig. I plan to push the front axle out a few millimeters. Add some weight to the front wheels. I want to look at shock options, maybe a more tuneable option. I think I will mount the new Compass tires that I have in the spare parts box. The gearing seemed too low when I needed some extra speed to get over obstacles. I have a list that I will work through to try to improve my chances at a podium spot.

            I got one photo on Course 3 between gate 1 & 2. Most all drivers had to winch over the beginning of this bridge. Here is what it looked like while winching.


            • #7
              I forgot to add a photo of the "fighting" weight of this rig. Here it is the night before Event #1, ready to go with battery and all. Kinda heavy.


              • #8
                Originally posted by btoungette View Post
                I need to tune a few things on the rig. I plan to push the front axle out a few millimeters. Add some weight to the front wheels. I want to look at shock options, maybe a more tuneable option. I think I will mount the new Compass tires that I have in the spare parts box. The gearing seemed too low when I needed some extra speed to get over obstacles. I have a list that I will work through to try to improve my chances at a podium spot.

                So, Event #2 is in the books, and I didn't share any changes before the event. As you can see from the list I spoke of after Event #1, I had somewhat of a plan.

                I did extend the front wheelbase out approximately 4 mm with the use of some RC4WD spacers.

                I did not add any weight the the front wheels. I did remove the spare tire, spare tire mount and the light bar. That removed some weight from the rear, instead of adding weights to the front.

                I changed the shocks. I removed the lift/lowering kit and the RC4WD stock G2 shocks. I installed some plastic Axial shocks with some RC4WD King Scale Shock Springs. I needed a stiffer set-up in the front, and really could have used some stiffer lower springs, but I had already used the stiffer springs on another build.

                I didn't change out the tires.

                And, I didn't change out the gearing.

                Overall, I think the rig performed better. Weight transfer felt more controlled and predictable with the changes to the shocks. I may tinker with those some more. The other items that I felt were issues in Event #1 didn't really show up in Event #2.

                The biggest issue I saw was the steering. I changed the shocks and that changed the stance slightly. I had to adjust the panhard bar to compensate for the changes to the shocks. I thought I had adjusted the steering accordingly, but apparently not. It didn't seem to have full throw, and seemed to stall at times. I addressed the throw last night by changing the drag link and adjusting the endpoints again. I'll hook the servo up to my programmer and verify the servo is allowing full power at all times, even when there is resistance.

                None of the changes helped me get to the podium, but I felt better about this outing. I finished 6th out of 7 including a DNF (pointed out) on course 3. Can't expect to finish on the podium without finishing all the courses.

                No photos. Didn't really cross my mind until it was too late.


                • #9
                  Interresting Solutions!
                  Great steering angle!

                  Will there be some light?



                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Crusader View Post
                    Interresting Solutions!
                    Great steering angle!

                    Will there be some light?


                    No working lights planned for this rig. They wouldn't really help with scale points enough to justify the trouble.

                    I do hope there is some light at the end of the tunnel... with a podium finish soon.


                    • #11
                      Hmm... to much work or to much troubles in action with the lights?

                      All of my rigs got lights.
                      About scale points and allmost for the night-runs.

                      I allways do it on the easiest way, 6 Volts from the receiver => 2 white LED‘s or 3 red LED‘s in serial connection.
                      That works great.


                      • #12
                        I run lights on my Class 1 truck, for the scale points. In some situations they are easy points to add. With this rig, I already have seven of the eight possible points for SORRCA Functional Items points. I had those points maxed until I removed the spare tire and mount. Another thing is this body isn't set up for lights. I'd have do do some work there that I don't want to do.

                        This rig is only a comp rig. If I were doing a fun (trailing) rig, I might add lights. I've ran lights on several of my past rigs. I currently have a couple of G2 Cruisers that I wouldn't mind having lights on. It does add to the realism.


                        • #13
                          So now it‘s clear for me and i understand your arguments.



                          • #14
                            I made a couple changes to the steering since the last update.

                            I was able to get a hold of of the RC4WD D44 Link Set for SCX10, and installed the bits I needed.

                            I used the tie-rod to replace my modified threaded rod, and I used the bent link for the drag link.

                            It fit as designed and works like a charm.

                            One other thing I had noticed is flex at the servo posts. In a full turn, the servo would move slightly. I ordered some VP aluminum servo posts and clamps to help hold the servo in place.



                            Another thing that was annoying me was the shock springs were getting caught up on the lower shock cap as the rig articulated. Did it hinder performance? Probably not. Was it annoying? Yes, sir. The cause was the bottom shock cap was tightened tight enough to cause the cap to protrude past the shock body and catch the springs. The remedy was to remove the material that was protruding with a Dremel and sanding drum. Now, no more catching of the springs. No photos of that process, sorry.

                            I purchased another set of the RC4WD 110mm King Scale Shock Spring Assortment so I can do some proper shock tuning. I changed a few springs around to get the stance that I wanted with the springiness I wanted. Again, no photos of that process.

                            One last thing that was changed... the rear foams in the tires. I changed from the CI Duece's Wild foams to some Lil' Nova Foams to fill out the tire better. Yep, you guessed it, no pics of that either.

                            I think that is all I have tinkered with on this rig.


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by btoungette,(time=1522071768)
                              We will see if any of it helps gain a podium spot at the third event this upcoming weekend.
                              It didn't.

                              Third event has come and gone (March 31st). Didn't do much better than the other events.

                              It's been a minute since an update... but, nothing has changed. Only thing I did to prep for Event #4 was to do a once-over and make sure everything was where it should be. I only found one or two screws that needed some thread locker. Other than that, nothing new.

                              Event #4 proved to be the best outing for this rig - 4th place. The tires hooked up on the rocks like no other time this year. The rocks were dry; so, that made a huge difference. I made a few careless mistakes that earned penalty points, but the rig did it's job.

                              We are now in our mid-season break; so, I need to decide the future of this rig... do I keep it as is, do I sell it, or do I modify a hardbody to fit in order to max the scale points?